Our Home: Part 7

After NINE looooonnnng months and a ton of blood, sweat and tears and hard work – we had carpet installed into our home on December 30th! That day was better than Christmas morning! It was the perfect way to start a New Year!

Our home wasn’t perfect and there was still so much to do – but we could move what little furniture we had upstairs, the carpet was clean and fresh and I could roll around on it and everything just smelt new!

I had to dig real deep to find most of these photos so I am sorry that they just plain bad –

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After working long hard hours and devoting every spare second we had to moving upstairs – we took a long break! We finished up some things here and there, like the fireplace and the bathrooms – but mostly our house just sat how it was for a year or so… and then I got an itch!

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Want to read more of the story or need to catch up?

Our Home Part 1
Our Home Part 2
Our Home Part 3
Our Home: Part 4
Our Home: Part 5
Our Home: Part 6

How to Build a Door Jamb from Scratch

Earlier this week I posted about the barn wood closet doors that I built and installed. When we remodeled our home we made the choice not to install closet doors – bad choice – if you are debating on open closets verses doors – go for the doors! After battling the open closet in my son’s room and losing the war, I decided to build those awesome closet door but first I had to build a jamb – so today I wanted to share with you how to build a door jamb from scratch!

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Here is the starting photo – and what I had to work with! You can see that it had nice round corners and drywall.

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The first thing I did was rip out all the drywall from the inside of the door and the corner bead.

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You need to expose the 2×4’s.

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As you can see, I didn’t even bother to clean out the closet, but things didn’t get too messy – I was careful and had these awesome new bags to use!

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These self-standing Gorilla bags were awesome for this project. They are thick enough to stand on their own and held all the drywall and corner bead I had without falling over or tearing.

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After everything was removed and cleaned up I started building the jamb. I used 3 1×6’s at 8 feet long and used my table saw to trim them down to 4.5 inches wide. Keep the little piece you cut off because you will use it later!

My door framing was twisted and awful and so instead of nailing the 1×6’s to the 2×4’s. I took my measurements and used my Ryobi pin nailer and wood glue to build the frame.

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When it was dry I inserted the frame into the opening.

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Then I got to work shimming it in and screwing it into place. I used three inch screws.

Note: When you screw your frame into the wall, try your best to drill the screws into the middle of the frame, then when you add the door stop you can cover them all up!

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For some reason, the only picture I have of the square is blurry but make sure your frame is completely square!

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Now you need the door stop. This is where the extra piece of the 1×6 comes into play! Mark your door where you want your door stop to go. I measured mine in the middle of the door and then (since the door stop was one inch thick) measured our half an inch and made my mark.

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I drew a line down the frame and used a level so it would be nice and straight.

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Then using my nail gun once again, I nailed the door stop into place.

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I marked where my hinges would go and using shims, reinforced behind the jamb so my screws would hold nice and tight.

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I also chiseled out my jamb for my hinges. If Spencer would have been home while I was doing this, he would have used his router before I even built the door and would have routed these out – but he wasn’t so I did it the good ole’ fashion way. The next time I build a door – I will wait for him!

Chiseling out door hinges is just plain crappy because it takes soooo long.

darn it!

Anyhoo – Here is how to chisel out a hinge.

Screw your hinge into the door, in place.
Use an utility knife and trace the hinge.
Take the hinge off.
Use your chisel and with the straight side on the outside, tap out the outline.
Tap out lines in between – it helps when you start to chisel.

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Then tap and chisel out the wood pieces.

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Do it over and over until you get the depth you need. When you have the depth you need (use your hinge to check) you can smooth it out a little bit.

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Add your trim… and chalk and putty and your done and ready for paint!

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Add your doors and you’re done!

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Besides chiseling – which is easy just time consuming – this is a simple project with a a HUGE impact!

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Barn Wood Closet Doors

Oh you guys!! I have such a fun project for you today! As you know I have been working on my boys room – but as I was almost done, I had an idea that just wouldn’t go away and one thing led to another and I decided that they needed closet doors – but since their room is rustic and fun regular ole’ closet doors just wouldn’t do – so I built barn wood closet doors and I am pretty much in la la love!

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I love the Tee hinges and the contrast of the gray rustic wood and the white trim.

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I also love the contrast of the wood with the bright colors in their room and all the colors of their toys and clothing in their closets.

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I used the same hardware pulls on the closet doors that I used for their dresser. I love the rustic look of them.

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Are you as in love as I am?

When we moved into our home we had to take out all the closet doors and remodel all the closets. We made the decision then to keep the closet doors off – but now I just want to hide all the junk! Okay… so not really junk more like their clothes and toys. Since we wanted open closets at first I had to build the doors from the ground up – including the new door jamb.

I’ll show you how to build a door jamb later this week, but for now let’s talk about barn doors!

Make Your Own Barn Wood Closet Doors:barn doors for the closet (70) copy

I used 1×6’s and 1×4’s at 8 feet – I was lucky and my closet was perfect for 4 1×6’s and two 1×4’s without having to cut anything down. I also cut 4 cross pieces for each door at 29 1/8” long.

If you do math you will have added up that I have an extra 1/8 on my cross piece. I spaced out my 1×6’s and 1×4’s to cover it.

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My closet measures just over 79” so I cut all my boards to my measurement and using a level, lined them all up. You want them as square as possible.

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I measured my door jam and hinges on each side and measured where they would hit on the door and tired to center my cross pieces on each side for the hinge.

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After I had my measurements and drew my line, I used gorilla glue to glue across the boards…

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Then pin nailed them into place. I put two nails in each board.

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Since I was using large hinges that aren’t really made for interior door frames, I had to cut out a little bit of the door to make room for the hinge. I set my circular saw to the correct depth and cut in on both sides… okay, okay… actually Spencer did it for me!

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Spencer is waaaayy better at math than I am so he also marked where my hinges should go! Here you can see how the hinge fits perfect in the piece we cut out.

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After my marks were made, I drilled little tiny pilot holes so I would have them marked after sanding and staining.

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When everything was marked on the front side, I flipped the door over and screwed the back cross braces on. I cut the back pieces to be a half and inch smaller than my door to create a clearance for the door jamb. I glued and screwed them in so they would be more secure and sturdy.

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I puttied and sanded and was ready for stain! To match their room and because it is my new favorite color, I used classic gray by Minwax.

barn doors for the closet (52) copy

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When everything was dry, I hung them up… and fell in love! I used a magnetic clasp to keep the doors closed and attached the pulls. I installed the pulls a little higher than normal for two reasons: I think they look better up a touch higher and I have a two year old!

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I love a room with a fun personality aspect and these totally do the trick! If you love them as much as I do, I would love if you would pin them!

Have a great Monday!

Linked to Linky Party Palooza and The Party Bunch!

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Our Home: Part 6

Last time we chatted about our home, I told you we had wood floors sitting under a plastic tarp in our front room.

Spencer and I bought rustic cherry from Lumber Liquidators and spent days gluing, piecing and nailing the pieces together to make us a kitchen floor! Sadly… we did this a few years ago and I don’t have one picture of the process. Luckily… we have a project in the works where we will show you the whole process of installing wood floors from top to bottom!

Anyway… after we sanded and finished the floors we installed the kitchen cabinets – actually I say we but it was really Spencer, his dad and his brother who worked late into the night – the night before Thanksgiving and got all the bases and uppers in. For an update on the cabinets you can check out this little post here!

I spent Thanksgiving morning cleaning out a bunch of moving boxes and putting away our dishes – I even had Spencer set up our table and old hutch and decorated our kitchen…

… and we still didn’t have carpet or tile or baseboards.

I really wanted to move in. I was done living in the basement!

This picture was the only one I could find and was taken a few days after Thanksgiving. You can see that we didn’t have any countertops, the bar top was incomplete and the only new appliance we had was a fridge. We still had the paper up from cutting in the baseboard paint and everything was a little crazy!

We still had to sleep in the basement but at least I had a kitchen… sort of!

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Want to read more of the story or need to catch up?

Our Home Part 1
Our Home Part 2
Our Home Part 3
Our Home: Part 4
Our Home: Part 5

Faux Drawer Farmhouse Console Table

While browsing around the internet and Facebook I saw a picture of a really cute console table and fell in love! I promptly showed the photo to Spencer who gave me a cut list and I was on my way to Home Depot for material! It came together so easily and I am pretty much in love with my new faux drawer farmhouse console table! Sometimes I want drawers and sometimes I don’t… like in areas of my home where I know that they will just collect junk… but I love the look of the drawers! Which makes this faux drawer console table a win-win!

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The dimensions of the Table are 4′  long, 11 1/4” deep and 33” tall.

Shopping List:
(1) 1×12 @ 4’ (These are pre-cut at home depot)
(2) 1×6 @ 6’
(2) 1×4 @ 6’
(3) 2×2
1 1/4” Pocket Screws
1/1/4” Brad Nails
Wood Putty
Sand Paper
Paint/Stain of Choice
knobs

Cut List:
(4) 2×2 @ 32 1/4”
(2) 1×6 @ 7”
(2) 2×2 @ 7”
(2) 1×6 @ 43 3/4”
(2) 2×2 @ 43 3/4”
(13) 1×4 @ 10”
(3) 1×4 @ 12”

I made the whole thing using my Kreg Jig!! I love that tool!!

After all the cuts are made use your kreg jig and drill your pocket holes. You will set it and drill it at 3/4”. Drill your pocket holes on the ends of your front and side pieces. I drilled the pocket holes and screwed the whole thing together with my Ryobi Drill and Impact Driver.

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Attach your 7” side pieces to the legs using gorilla wood glue and pocket screws.

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After both sides are made, attach the front pieces and the back pieces.

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For the end slats at the bottom, you need to cut out squares for the legs on each end. I used a piece of 2×2 and traced it onto my 1×4.

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I then used our jig saw and cut along the lines.

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Glue and nail your end pieces on first…

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Then you can space out your inside pieces evenly and glue and nail them on too. This way you don’t end up with too little or too much space on one side.

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I used my Ryobi Airstrike Brad Nailer to nail on the slats.

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I also used the brad nailer to nail on the top. I made sure I had the same 5/8” reveal on all sides and glued and nailed it on.

I found the middle of the table and the middle of the drawers – measured and spaced it out and then glued and nailed the drawer fronts on. You could also do this before you put the table together.

Faux Drawer Console Table (25) copy

I filled all the brad nail holes with wood filler and sanded the table down a little bit. I then used DecoArt Chalk Paint in Relic and painted the whole thing.

Faux Drawer Console Table (27) copy

I love painting with chalk paint and this color is beautiful! It is a dark gray and is quickly becoming one of my new favorite colors! I also used a couple coats of the DecoArt Cream Wax finish to protect it.

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When the finish was dry, I used my Ryobi Corner Cat and scuffed it up a bit!

Add your knobs and your done!

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I built it and painted it in one afternoon and it cost me less than $30 to make! Quick and easy and beautiful!! La La La Love It!!

I don’t have any idea where I am going to put it yet… but I love it! If you make one, we would love to see it!

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Toy Truck Bookends

In our home, we love books! I find my kids “reading” books all the time! I am constantly pulling books out from behind their beds where the books have slipped down when my kids were looking at them before they fell asleep. The hard part for me is figuring out how to display them while still letting them be accessible for the kids. I wanted to put some truck/construction books on my boy’s dresser but didn’t want to just stack them up — what to do, what to do? I was watching my kids play with their trucks when I go the idea to make some fun toy truck bookends… using toy trucks!

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This project is so simple and I made it using scraps from my wood pile and trucks my kids had in their toy box!

All you need are a few pieces of 1×6’s and toys!

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I picked out the trucks I was going to use and figured out my measurements by sitting the truck on the wood – it came out to be about 7” long. I cut the back pieces to be the same – so (4) 7” pieces.

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Their room is stained with Minwax Classic Gray so I went ahead and stained these classic gray too.

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After the pieces were dry, I used Gorilla wood glue to glue the pieces together and then used my Ryobi Airstrike Nailer to nail them together. I used four nails on each one.

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And then I realized that if I put these on the dresser, they would melt right into the gray and wouldn’t even stand out – so I took them outside and gave them a nice coat of my favorite Rustoleum Heirloom White.

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When the spray paint was dry, I used my sponge sander and roughed them up a bit. I am really glad I did the Classic Gray stain underneath because I like seeing the gray show through.

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Then I used E6000 to glue the trucks onto each side. I glued the wheels and  the back of the trucks and the E6000 held it perfect!

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Then I was done!

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Cute right!!??

So the big question… where did I get the trucks? Sadly, I don’t know where to get them… My son got them as a gift a couple years ago and I stole them out of his toy bin.  But really you guys! Every toy store has cute trucks… just go pick some out!! I think it would be really cute (and I was really tempted) to do a fire truck and an ambulance – you could even do some race cars!

And yes… I owe my kid a new truck… or two!

Have a great day!!

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Polka Dot Succulent Planter

Happy Tuesday! Sorry we missed a post yesterday – the weekend was just too fun and I spent yesterday playing catch-up! I have been working on and building some pretty big projects that I cannot wait to share with you, including a huge project for my boys room and then I can do the full reveal! In the meantime, I felt like our little backyard picnic table needed a little “something” so I whipped up this fun little polka dot succulent planter and I am loving the white and gold!

Succulent Planter Box (42) copy

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Succulent Planter Box (40) copy

This is such an easy project and just perfect for beginners or a quick nap time project. It is also really easy to modify for your space. I used some pieces of 1×4’s and a 1×6 from my wood pile. To make this exact one here is a cut list:

Cut List:
(2) 1×4 @ 18”
(2) 1×4 @ 4”
(1) 1×6 @ 18”

You will need wood glue and a staple gun – or a drill and screws to build the box.

Attach the 4” pieces to the ends of a 1×4. Remember to use your wood glue – and staple the pieces together.  This will be one side and the ends.

Turn the piece on its side and glue all along the edge. Then staple your 1×6 (the bottom piece) on the side.

Glue once again along the bottom piece and attach your last side.

Now your box is built – it will look really familiar – almost like this shelf!

I knew I was going to be scuffing it up so I gave the edges a quick coat of Rustoleum Expresso.

Succulent Planter Box (10) copy

Then I gave the whole thing a good coat of Rustoleum Gold Metallic. This gold metallic pretty much rocks my world!

Succulent Planter Box (14) copy

Succulent Planter Box (16) copy

Using my Silhouette I cut out a bunch of vinyl polka dots and placed them all over the box.

Succulent Planter Box (20) copy

Then I gave it a good coat of Rustoleum Heirloom White. When the paint was dry I pulled off all the dots.

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Then I took my sponge sander to the whole thing and roughed it up a bit.

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Because I knew I was planting dry loving succulents I didn’t drill any holes in the bottom for drainage… if you are planting something that needs lots of water – drill a few holes for drainage so you don’t ruin your roots.  I added some rocks to the bottom.

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Then my little helper added a layer of moisture control potting soil.

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I added all the plants – mostly Jade type succulents – and then filled in around each plant with the potting soil and was done!

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I love it!! I love the polka dots and the white and the gold – especially with the bright green of the succulents!

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These succulents are suppose to bloom with white flowers in the winter so I am excited to see that! This is my first go around with succulents so I hope I succeed and don’t kill them!

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Easy One Hour Rustic Crate

Happy Friday!! Today we are sharing a quick project that I (amanda) built for The Crafting Chicks! Did you know that I am a contributor over there? I am! I  love those girls and it is so fun to work with them! The project I built for them is an an easy one hour rustic crate. This project is a great project if you are just learning to build and use tools.

Materials Needed:
1 1×4
1 1×10
Gorilla Glue
1” staples (or nails)
Paint/Stain
Handles

Tools Needed:
Miter Box
Staple Gun or Hammer
Tape Measure

Use your miter box and cut the 1×10 for your bottom and your ends. The length of the bottom is 16” and the ends are 9”. You can make them bigger or smaller if you would like to – the great thing about DIY is that you can make it how you want too!

Use your 1×4 and cut your sides to be the same length as your bottom piece – so I cut mine to be 16”. You will need four pieces for your sides.

Set up your ends to be about the same width apart as your bottom piece and add your gorilla wood glue to one end. Only apply the glue to one end so you don’t smear it on the other end.

Staple the glued end on.

Glue the other end and then staple it on as well. So you now have a “U” shape – like a bridge.

Now that the bottom and end pieces are glued and stapled you will lay the bottom and end pieces on their side and glue and staple the side pieces on. To do this – you need to apply glue to both ends of the bottom side piece.

You also want to glue the entire bottom side too – then line up the side with the bottom and staple it onto the end pieces.

Go up a couple inches and glue and staple the ends on the top side piece too.

Flip it over and glue and staple the side pieces to the other side as well. You can see that I left about an inch on the top and I love it like that but you can go to the top if you don’t. I like the character it adds.

Now we are into the project about 10 minutes! Sweet right? Now let’s paint it or stain it! I chose to paint this one!

DIY 1 hour rustic crate (12) copy

I used DecoArt Chalk Paint and gave it a coat of Yesteryear. I love this color – it is blueish gray and beautiful! I used my sander and scuffed it up a bit and then used a coat of clear wax to protect it.

I bought some 3” pulls from Home Depot and attached them and was done – Woot! Woot!

So easy and simple and perfect for so many storage reasons.

Like I said – this is a perfect project if you are just learning to use tools or if you only have a few minutes to build a project. If you don’t have a staple gun, use a hammer and nails – you will get the same rustic feel from the nails. Head out to Home Depot and pick up some supplies and whip up a couple of these – you will love them!

Have a great day and get building!

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Tips for Installing Drawer Hardware

Hello Friends! I hope you all had a wonderful 4th of July holiday! Spencer finally had some days off work so we were finally able to do some really fun things together as a family! We hit up the waterpark, went out for dinner, stopped by the snow cone shack, bought and lit off some amazing fireworks, made smore’s in our firepit and camped in the backyard. Yesterday we escaped the heat a little bit and headed up to the mountains for a tin foil dinner picnic! It is always nice to take a little vacation from the mundane every day things – like cleaning!

Today I wanted to share with you some quick tips for installing drawer hardware. If you are just learning to build – this can be a little tricky – making sure everything is straight and flat and looks good.

6 drawer rustic rolling dresser-29 copy

To make things easier for us and because Spencer used to install cabinets for a living – he created this awesome little hardware template. The template has a few of the common drawer hardware sizes and then gives you the holes for certain measurements. You simply line it up with the center of your drawer front, decide where you want the hardware to go and using an ale, press in the holes.

Tips for Installing Drawer Pulls (7) copy

Here you can see that I have marked my hardware with an ale and made the holes for where my pull will go.

Tips for Installing Drawer Pulls (1) copy

Using a 3/16 drill bit, drill out the holes where your marks are. Make sure you drill straight up and down.

Tips for Installing Drawer Pulls (2) copy

When your holes are drilled, flip your board over and using a 3/8 speedbor – notch out the back of your hole. You only need to give your drill one good squeeze because you only want the hole as deep as the screw head. Here are some great tips for using a speedbor. 

Tips for Installing Drawer Pulls (3) copy

Tips for Installing Drawer Pulls (5) copy

Attach your hardware. Here you can see that the screws lie flat and don’t poke out at all. Now when you attach your drawer fronts to your drawers, they will sit flat and you won’t have a gap between your drawer and your front from the screws.

Tips for Installing Drawer Pulls (6) copy

Use the same measurement for each drawer and repeat all the steps and your furniture piece will be awesome!

For other posts in this series you can check out these:

Rustic Rolling 6-Drawer Dresser
Tips for Installing Drawer Fronts

Have a great Monday!

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DIY Workbench on Wheels

A couple weeks ago I was scrolling through my instagram feed and saw a DIY workbench that the darling Shanty 2 Chic girls made – and just knew it would be perfect for me! I swung by Home Depot, grabbed my supplies and came home and built my DIY Workbench on Wheels.

A few weeks ago, Spencer and I spent all weekend cleaning out both of our garages… and organizing… and lovingly arguing about whose workspace is whose. He wanted me to work on his workbench and cleaned if off and organized it – and he even set up my kreg jig just for me! What a nice guy, right!? Sadly, I knew that would never work because that is HIS and always gets taken over with general contracting junk… blah!

Last Friday morning I got an idea for a project so I headed out to the workbench and found this:

DIY Workbench on Wheels (1) copy

So I grabbed my phone, snapped a photo, texted Spencer telling him I wanted a workbench on wheels…went back up stairs… searched the plans and went to Home Depot!

This bench is an easy build  and I only spent a couple hours Friday afternoon building it. I had to get it done before Spencer got home! Just kidding… {sort of!}

I followed the plans and only changed a couple things. Instead of using my Kreg Jig (hence the reason I was making the workbench!) I just drove in 3” screws – I don’t care if they show – and I also used 1 1/4 inch screws to secure the top instead of brad nails… only because my screws were right there and my brad nailer wasn’t.

DIY Workbench on Wheels (16) copy

I love everything about this workbench!! I love that I can roll it all around the garage and out into the driveway. I love the bottom shelf so I can store tools and supplies. I love how long it is and I love the height!

If you are looking for an awesome workbench to build – build this one!

Now I just need to finish up the projects in my garage so I can push it up against the wall — just like I promised Spencer I would!

Spencer actually really likes it too – but I think mostly he just likes it because I love it! He is also impressed I built it in two hours… while our littles played outside.

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