What To Do If Your Paint Runs

Hey guys!!

Did you guys see the cherry and white farmhouse kitchen table revamp I posted about on Tuesday? I am so in love with it and I enjoy the warmth it brings into our kitchen!

Cherry and white farmhouse kitchen table

In that post I showed you that I used my finish max to spray the whole thing so today I wanted to talk about something that probably happens to everyone! You get a little trigger happy on the paint sprayer or on the spray paint can or you get a little antsy and spray on a layer to heavy and of course… the paint runs! ahhhhh!!

No worries! I am here today to help you through it! You see, when I was sponge sanding my chairs down for final coat and getting rid of all the grit I found a run… dang it!

What do to if your paint runs (1) copy

Good thing I know how to fix it and in just a couple minutes you will too! Now even if you were painting and found a run in the wet paint, you would take the same steps – only wait for the run to dry.

You need the paint to be completely dry.

And you need a really sharp razor blade!

What do to if your paint runs (2) copy

Take your razor blade and simply slice off the run. The paint in the “run” part will be thick and will slice away really nicely.

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Here you can see where I sliced off the run.

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Take a sponge sander and lightly sand the area where the run was and the surrounding area.

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and then you are ready to paint once again! You will need to add a few extra coats to the area to cover the place you sliced off – but you will be run free and happy!!

Have a great day – and be patient as you spray!


Easily Paint a Stair Banister {Finish Max Sprayer}

One of the perks to blogging is that sometimes we get to review some pretty cool things! My sister and her husband just bought a home and have been remodeling it. They kept putting off painting the stair banister – because, let’s face it – that job is horrible and no one wanted to volunteer. I decided to take one for the team!

I contacted the awesome people over at HomeRight and asked if they would be willing to send a paint sprayer and they said “yes!”

Which was a relief to me, because hand painting that railing would have been a nightmare!

They sent out the Finish Max Sprayer.

HomeRight Finish Max Fine Finish HVLP Sprayer

This baby is my new best friend!! I have painted a few things (upcoming projects!) with this sprayer and it is awesome!

Finish pro Max Review (13) copy

So here is the fun oak banister before…

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Finish pro Max Review (4) copy

This is the first spray painter I have used so I was a bit nervous at first with how to use it. I was worried it would spray all over or not at all – or that the paint would run like crazy or that it would spit and sputter… but none of those things happened! What did happen is that I fell in love!

Finish pro Max Review (8) copy

It took me about an hour and a couple coats and the results are AMAZING! 

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Spencer came over and helped spray the second banister and he loved it too. He has worked with many sprayers before so a “this little sprayer isn’t too bad” comment is a good thing! He also keeps encouraging me to use it for other projects! Win-Win!!

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Things I love about the Finish Max:

  • It is very user friendly – great for beginners and pros.
  • Easy to use and easy to clean up.
  • The over spray is very minimal.
  • It has a smooth finish.
  • It doesn’t spit or sputter.
  • You can spray in vertical, horizontal or circular paths.

Tips for the Finish Max:

  • You need to thin the paint. I mixed it with water according to the “enamel” suggestion since it didn’t list “latex” or any other type of paint.
  • The nozzle gets plugged up with dry paint and you will need to stop occasionally to clean it.  I just use my finger under my paint shirt to wipe it clean and sometimes I use a baby wipe.
  • You may start painting EVERYTHING in your house because you will love it that much!
  • The Finish Max can also be used with clear sealer, polyurethane, stain and varnish.

    It isn’t really meant for walls and HomeRight has a bunch of other products that will help with that – but since I was all loaded up with paint and ready to spray – I sprayed the pantry and a coat closet for my sister. It took just a few minutes and the difference is amazing.

Finish pro Max Review (1) copy

I don’t have a good after photo because as soon as the paint was dry she loaded the pantry up – but you can see how will it covered the shelving in the following photo. I used it at the most powerful spray and it is was great! The paint went on smooth with no problems and saved so much time!

Finish pro Max Review (12) copy

If you have banisters or furniture or small closets that needed painting this is totally worth the investment – but beware and don’t blame me when you start “thinking up” things to paint!


Toy Truck Bookends

In our home, we love books! I find my kids “reading” books all the time! I am constantly pulling books out from behind their beds where the books have slipped down when my kids were looking at them before they fell asleep. The hard part for me is figuring out how to display them while still letting them be accessible for the kids. I wanted to put some truck/construction books on my boy’s dresser but didn’t want to just stack them up — what to do, what to do? I was watching my kids play with their trucks when I go the idea to make some fun toy truck bookends… using toy trucks!

Toy Truck Book Ends (63) copy

Toy Truck Book Ends (61) copy

This project is so simple and I made it using scraps from my wood pile and trucks my kids had in their toy box!

All you need are a few pieces of 1×6’s and toys!

Toy Truck Book Ends (1) copy

I picked out the trucks I was going to use and figured out my measurements by sitting the truck on the wood – it came out to be about 7” long. I cut the back pieces to be the same – so (4) 7” pieces.

Toy Truck Book Ends (2) copy

Their room is stained with Minwax Classic Gray so I went ahead and stained these classic gray too.

Toy Truck Book Ends (3) copy

After the pieces were dry, I used Gorilla wood glue to glue the pieces together and then used my Ryobi Airstrike Nailer to nail them together. I used four nails on each one.

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Toy Truck Book Ends (13) copy

And then I realized that if I put these on the dresser, they would melt right into the gray and wouldn’t even stand out – so I took them outside and gave them a nice coat of my favorite Rustoleum Heirloom White.

Toy Truck Book Ends (5) copy

When the spray paint was dry, I used my sponge sander and roughed them up a bit. I am really glad I did the Classic Gray stain underneath because I like seeing the gray show through.

Toy Truck Book Ends (35) copy

Then I used E6000 to glue the trucks onto each side. I glued the wheels and  the back of the trucks and the E6000 held it perfect!

Toy Truck Book Ends (34) copy

Then I was done!

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Cute right!!??

So the big question… where did I get the trucks? Sadly, I don’t know where to get them… My son got them as a gift a couple years ago and I stole them out of his toy bin.  But really you guys! Every toy store has cute trucks… just go pick some out!! I think it would be really cute (and I was really tempted) to do a fire truck and an ambulance – you could even do some race cars!

And yes… I owe my kid a new truck… or two!

Have a great day!!


Polka Dot Succulent Planter

Happy Tuesday! Sorry we missed a post yesterday – the weekend was just too fun and I spent yesterday playing catch-up! I have been working on and building some pretty big projects that I cannot wait to share with you, including a huge project for my boys room and then I can do the full reveal! In the meantime, I felt like our little backyard picnic table needed a little “something” so I whipped up this fun little polka dot succulent planter and I am loving the white and gold!

Succulent Planter Box (42) copy

Succulent Planter Box (39) copy

Succulent Planter Box (40) copy

This is such an easy project and just perfect for beginners or a quick nap time project. It is also really easy to modify for your space. I used some pieces of 1×4’s and a 1×6 from my wood pile. To make this exact one here is a cut list:

Cut List:
(2) 1×4 @ 18”
(2) 1×4 @ 4”
(1) 1×6 @ 18”

You will need wood glue and a staple gun – or a drill and screws to build the box.

Attach the 4” pieces to the ends of a 1×4. Remember to use your wood glue – and staple the pieces together.  This will be one side and the ends.

Turn the piece on its side and glue all along the edge. Then staple your 1×6 (the bottom piece) on the side.

Glue once again along the bottom piece and attach your last side.

Now your box is built – it will look really familiar – almost like this shelf!

I knew I was going to be scuffing it up so I gave the edges a quick coat of Rustoleum Expresso.

Succulent Planter Box (10) copy

Then I gave the whole thing a good coat of Rustoleum Gold Metallic. This gold metallic pretty much rocks my world!

Succulent Planter Box (14) copy

Succulent Planter Box (16) copy

Using my Silhouette I cut out a bunch of vinyl polka dots and placed them all over the box.

Succulent Planter Box (20) copy

Then I gave it a good coat of Rustoleum Heirloom White. When the paint was dry I pulled off all the dots.

Succulent Planter Box (21) copy

Then I took my sponge sander to the whole thing and roughed it up a bit.

Succulent Planter Box (22) copy

Because I knew I was planting dry loving succulents I didn’t drill any holes in the bottom for drainage… if you are planting something that needs lots of water – drill a few holes for drainage so you don’t ruin your roots.  I added some rocks to the bottom.

Succulent Planter Box (23) copy

Then my little helper added a layer of moisture control potting soil.

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I added all the plants – mostly Jade type succulents – and then filled in around each plant with the potting soil and was done!

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I love it!! I love the polka dots and the white and the gold – especially with the bright green of the succulents!

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These succulents are suppose to bloom with white flowers in the winter so I am excited to see that! This is my first go around with succulents so I hope I succeed and don’t kill them!


Easy One Hour Rustic Crate

Happy Friday!! Today we are sharing a quick project that I (amanda) built for The Crafting Chicks! Did you know that I am a contributor over there? I am! I  love those girls and it is so fun to work with them! The project I built for them is an an easy one hour rustic crate. This project is a great project if you are just learning to build and use tools.

Materials Needed:
1 1×4
1 1×10
Gorilla Glue
1” staples (or nails)

Tools Needed:
Miter Box
Staple Gun or Hammer
Tape Measure

Use your miter box and cut the 1×10 for your bottom and your ends. The length of the bottom is 16” and the ends are 9”. You can make them bigger or smaller if you would like to – the great thing about DIY is that you can make it how you want too!

Use your 1×4 and cut your sides to be the same length as your bottom piece – so I cut mine to be 16”. You will need four pieces for your sides.

Set up your ends to be about the same width apart as your bottom piece and add your gorilla wood glue to one end. Only apply the glue to one end so you don’t smear it on the other end.

Staple the glued end on.

Glue the other end and then staple it on as well. So you now have a “U” shape – like a bridge.

Now that the bottom and end pieces are glued and stapled you will lay the bottom and end pieces on their side and glue and staple the side pieces on. To do this – you need to apply glue to both ends of the bottom side piece.

You also want to glue the entire bottom side too – then line up the side with the bottom and staple it onto the end pieces.

Go up a couple inches and glue and staple the ends on the top side piece too.

Flip it over and glue and staple the side pieces to the other side as well. You can see that I left about an inch on the top and I love it like that but you can go to the top if you don’t. I like the character it adds.

Now we are into the project about 10 minutes! Sweet right? Now let’s paint it or stain it! I chose to paint this one!

DIY 1 hour rustic crate (12) copy

I used DecoArt Chalk Paint and gave it a coat of Yesteryear. I love this color – it is blueish gray and beautiful! I used my sander and scuffed it up a bit and then used a coat of clear wax to protect it.

I bought some 3” pulls from Home Depot and attached them and was done – Woot! Woot!

So easy and simple and perfect for so many storage reasons.

Like I said – this is a perfect project if you are just learning to use tools or if you only have a few minutes to build a project. If you don’t have a staple gun, use a hammer and nails – you will get the same rustic feel from the nails. Head out to Home Depot and pick up some supplies and whip up a couple of these – you will love them!

Have a great day and get building!


Over 20 Turquoise Furniture Accent Pieces

I love a good statement piece and I love blue – especially turquoise – in all it’s beautiful, wonderful shades. I have been thinking a lot about furniture lately and the color blue so I gathered up over 20 Turquoise Furniture Accent Pieces that I totally adore and I know they will make your heart go pitter patter too!

20 turquoise furniture pieces

Turquoise Dresser

Benjamin Moore's 2012 Color of the Year: Wythe Blue {HC-143}...more info on this gorgeous entryway at simplyseleta.com
Turquoise Mud Bench

3-Drawer Dresser

Turquoise Glass Door Hutch

Ladder Vintage Rustic, Emerald Green with walnut distressing
Turquoise Blanket Ladder

Turquoise Chest of Drawers

Turquoise Card Catalog

distressed turquoise furniture
Turquoise Coffee Tables

Must have this hutch!! color and all even the orange I can handle
Modern Turquoise Hutch

Swedish Bed
Turquoise Queen Bed Frame

Turquoise Vintage Twin Bed

This was probably a very nice wood stain highboy. Painted turquoise, it's spectacular!  #colorsofthesea
Turquoise Highboy Dresser

love this turquoise bookshelf cabinet and the green table! Exactly what I want for my house!
Turquoise Bookshelves

I would love to have this in my room. Love the color!!!
Turquoise Make-Up Table

SOLD - Hand Painted French Country Cottage Chic Shabby Romantic Vintage Victorian Jacobean Aqua Turquoise Sideboard Cabinet Buffet on Etsy, $1.00
Turquoise Buffet

Lucia dining table.  £695  would be a great dining room table to flow with my future kitchen :)
Turquoise Dinner Table

RESERVED for Sandra - Deposit - Hand Painted Cottage Chic Shabby Aqua Romantic Turquoise / Teal Blue Empire Dresser
Vintage Turquoise Dresser

Turquoise Bathroom Vanity

turquoise furniture
Turquoise Four Drawer Dresser

Turquoise Farmhouse Bed

Vintage Reclaimed Turquoise Milk Chalk Paint 3 Dr Drop Leaf Victorian Accent End Side Table (9198684475-01) SHIPS Fed Ex
Small Turquoise Buffet

I love how unique each of these pieces are and how much character they each have. If you loved these pieces, you might like these as well!

Green with Envy Collage copy  Yellow Accent Furniture Pieces
Have a great weekend!


Whimsical Wooden Pallet Flag

Happy Memorial Day!

Today is a special day to celebrate all our loved ones who have passed on before us – and to honor all our loved ones who fought so bravely for our Country. I am thankful for all the brave men and women who have fought so hard, with courage, for our freedom.

Today I have a fun little Americana project in honor of Memorial Day – a whimsical wooden pallet flag – made from 1×4’s.

Whimsical Wooden Pallet Flag (34) copy

The awesome thing about this project is that I had everything I needed to make this on hand. I have a bunch of scrap wood hanging around in my garage that needs to turn into projects and the first one I tackled was this wooden flag.

Supplies Needed:

2 1×4’s
1 1×2 or Paint Sticks
Staple Gun/Drill & Screws
Gorilla Wood Glue
Red, White, Blue Paint
Vinyl Stars

Whimsical Wooden Pallet Flag (1) copy

I used my miter box and cut my 1×4’s into different lengths. The longest being 36” and the shortest being 34”.  I cut four pieces and they measure 14” across. I cut my 1×2 to be 12” long.

Whimsical Wooden Pallet Flag (2) copy 

I kept the top straight and let the bottom vary. I used gorilla glue and glued the 1×2’s to the top and bottom of the 1×4’s in the middle –

and the stapled it together with my Ridgid Stapler. If you don’t have a stapler you could use a pin nailer, or a drill and screws.

I spray painted it with Rustoluem Heirloom White ….

… then taped it off and painted red stripes.

Using my Silhouette Cameo, I cut out 9 stars with vinyl and applied them. I taped off the stripes…

… and gave it a messy layer of blue paint. Then I peeled off the vinyl stars.

I wanted it rustic looking (hence the messy blue paint) so I scuffed it up with a sanding sponge.

I used Minwax Clear Express to apply a protection clear coat since it will be hanging outside and was done!

Simple right! It take about 10 minutes to cut the wood and put it together and then you just have to wait for your paint to dry!

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Simple and fun – and super quick to make! Run to Home Depot and pick up your wood and get to work on one today! Have a great Memorial Day and while you our BBQing remember those that made it possible!


How to Install Board and Batten

After I had cleared out my kiddo’s room – The first thing I wanted to do was to install board and batten! I totally and completely adore the look of board and batten and want it in almost every room of my home! So today we are going to share how to install board and batten. 

Craftsman Style Boarda and Batten (3) copy

I feel like it totally adds the charm and characteristic of an old farmhouse or craftsman style house (which I am completely going for!) and couldn’t wait to get started in Quinn and Zachary’s room. I am so glad I went for it because I am so in love with the finished product!

Craftsman Style Boarda and Batten (4) copy  Craftsman Style Boarda and Batten (6) copy

Why yes, I did have to shift around the crib and the bed to take these photos! and yes… there is a big mess under my feet — just keeping it real right?

We had classic style baseboard and casing and I tore it all out and installed new craftsman style baseboard and casing. With the new base and casing nailed up, I was ready to begin the board and batten.

One of the great things about the new baseboards is that I had not caulked them to the wall yet, so the board and batten boards fit it nice and snug with not much space to have to caulk.


First: Head on over to Home Depot and pick up three sheets of 1/2” MDF. (You may need more or less depending on the size of your room so just measure accordingly)  Home Depot workers are amazing and will cut all the slats for you. I had mine cut at four inches. Ask them to cut one board in 4” pieces lengthwise and two boards in 4” pieces widthwise. If you want your board and batten to be higher than 49” you will need them all cut lengthwise.

NOTE: This room is 12×12 – I just feel like that is important to share!

Second: Decide the height you want your board and batten. Mine is 52” high. Why 52”? Because when Spencer asked me how high I wanted it, I told him “this high” as I put my hand on the wall and it was 52” – no scientific reasoning… just that is how I wanted it!

Third: With a tape measure and pencil in hand, walk around the room and measure and mark the wall how high you want it. For the sake of argument we will go with 52”. Mark from the floor. Mark 52” in 4-5 places along the wall – mark each side and then a few places in the middle. Using a level draw a line to connect the dots.

Fourth: Nail up the top rail. Make sure you hit the studs in the wall with the nails. You will also want to use construction adhesive (liquid nails) to help secure the boards.

How to Install Board and Batten (1) copy

If you have rounded corners you want to cut the top rail like you did the baseboard using 22.5” miters. You can find that tutorial here.

How to Install Board and Batten (6) copy 

Fifth: After your top rail is installed you can begin to add your boards. You need to really think and do some math at this point. How long is your wall? How far apart do you want your boards? Do you want them over the outlets? Do you want a board in each corner? How will it carry over onto the next wall?  This part is always the most stressful part for me. After measuring and doing the math I decided to glue and nail them up 13 inches apart from each other. On two of the three walls it worked out perfect but on the third wall there was only about 8 inches left before the door… but with how the room was it worked great.

Measure your wall then divide by the inches you want in between the board and the boards themselves. So if I wanted 13 inches in between and my wall was 160” long I would divide 160 by 17 (13+4).  I would try to stay around 10-14 inches apart. You could also decided how many boards you want a wall and divide that by the 160 to see how far apart you need them. 160 is pretty easy – 10 boards is 16” so each board would be 12” apart. But not every wall is simple like that. You may have measurements like 13 3/4 or 10 5/8.

You are going to be painting over your wall so don’t be afraid to mark it up and to make sure that is how you want it – if you need a better visual.

When you have your measurement, measure and mark your wall. Use a level and make a level line where the board can line up. This makes things go faster during the nailing up part.

You can see my marks and my level lines.

Sixth: Measure from baseboard to top rail and cut your slats. You will only need to cut off a few inches on each one. They should almost all be the same measurement. All of mine were 42.5” – so were a little more snug than others and some needed to be shaved off just a touch because the baseboard was warped a tiny bit but nothing bad.

Seventh: Unless you are a miracle worker (which I am not) and somehow worked out your boards to line up with all the studs in your wall you will need to use liquid nails to ensure your boards are tight to the wall.

Eight: Line up your board with the level line you drew and nail up your board. Since you have glue all over the back the line makes it less messy. I always stick one nail in the top and use my level to ensure it is still level (I always double check) and then I finish nailing the board in – at least two on the top, in the middle and the bottom.

TIP: When nailing them up, make sure they are flush with the top rail. If you have to caulk, you want the caulking to be less visible and that would be at the bottom between the board and the base.

I want you to notice two things in picture below (not the bad lighting, the dang sun was shining right in the window so sorry about that!) First: Notice the board second over from the wall. I wasn’t paying attention (in a hurry) and did not do what I just mentioned – and you can totally see the gap. That will be a bugger to caulk. Second: See the gap between the wall/corner and the board. That board is perfectly level. The wall…. not so much. If I had followed the wall, the board would look wonky and off level – because it would be. I will simply use a crap load of caulking in the gap and even it all out. When finished you won’t even see the gap, but if I didn’t level the board – you would have seen that!


Ninth: Caulk and putty the holes and all the seams.

How to Install Board and Batten (14) copy

TIP: When caulking, fill an extra bowl or plastic bowl with a few napkins or wet wipes and use that to get your fingers wet for a smooth finish.

Tenth: Sand! This step is annoying but very important!! You don’t want rough edges on your boards and you don’t want caulk or putty marks so sand, sand, sand!

Eleven: First Coat of Paint!!! Use your brush and cut in and paint every singe corner/edge – then apply one thin coat to your boards. Pay attention to this first coat as it will point out all the flaws. You will find missed nail holes, missed sanding, missed caulking – and this gives you the chance to fix it all!!

Twelve: Paint on your final coats. I add on two more coats – the MDF seems to just suck up the paint so I add an extra coat “just in case!”

And you are done!!! Hip! Hip! Hooray!!

Craftsman Style Boarda and Batten (12) copy

TIP: With projects like this I feel like there are so many different things I need for the entire project so I just grab a clothes basket and put everything I need in there and then I can drag it around the room and have everything close by.

I was going to call this: 12 steps to board and batten – but let’s face it! This is hard work – time consuming!! I have seen a few posts and blogs and I thought “sweet! This will be so easy – you just throw some boards on the wall and call it good!”

No. That is wrong. haha!

It is easy enough – it just takes time! I did this room all by myself. Spencer was gone and I wanted it done so I did it – with three little helpers! It took me all day Saturday (11-6) to cut and nail everything up (base and casing included) and a couple hours (7:30-9:30) that night to putty all the holes and use one can of caulk.

I hate to caulk – it kills my fingers and always makes them bleed – so I only do one can of caulk at a time and it took 2 cans to do the room.

On Monday I finished caulking and that night sanded and vacuumed!
On Wednesday I painted on the first coat and touched up holes and such.
On Thursday I painted the last two coats and applied a fresh new layer of gray to the top.

I had paint in my hair for three days!

Was it worth it? heck yes!
Would I do it again? Yes! (this is actually the third room I have done this too! but the other project is secretive!)

 Craftsman Style Boarda and Batten (13) copy

Tomorrow I will show you the trick to cut out the outlets!


2 x 4 Chunky Farmhouse Coffee Table

A few days after Christmas, I got the idea in my head that I wanted Spencer to build me a coffee table. I wanted it to be big and chunky and have farmhouse appeal. I searched the web and found some great plans for almost exactly what I wanted and decided to go with the plans from More Like Home. Spencer and I loaded up the kids, headed out to Home Depot to grab our 2×4’s and came home to build it.

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Spencer cut everything in the garage and then we assembled it in the family room while we watched a movie. It is a pretty simple build and we followed the plans – except we don’t have a Kreg Jig and so we used our speedbor method to countersink the screws – and it worked perfect! I’m not going to reinvent the wheel so if you would like to build this table, head over More Like Home and follow her plans!

2 x 4 Chunky Farmhouse Table-2 copy

I puttied the screw holes and used my quarter sheet sander to sand it down a bit. I also stained the edges of the coffee table with Minwax Cherry Stain so when I sanded for my farmhouse look I would have a cherry color show through and match the wood in our home.

2 x 4 Chunky Farmhouse Table-19 copy

And then she sat in the garage for a few weeks. It was too cold to spray paint. I didn’t want brush marks from regular paint. I didn’t want to stain… so I was a little bit stuck.

In the meantime, Annie Sloan Unfolded contacted me and asked if  I would be willing to review a few of their products – when they arrived, I knew it would be the perfect paint for my coffee table.

2 x 4 Chunky Farmhouse Table-13 copy

I have heard and seen a lot of great reviews for Chalk Paint® decorative paint by Annie Sloan so I was excited to try it out – especially on something that Spencer and I had worked on together. I picked Old White for an antique look.

2 x 4 Chunky Farmhouse Table-21 copy

Using the brush, I was provided, I brushed the paint onto the coffee table. I was impressed with how smoothly it went on and how very little brush marks were made. I love how big this brush is and it paints like a dream. My only complaint about the brush is I did have to pick out a few bristles – which can be annoying but with how smooth the rest of the work went, a couple bristles was worth it for me.

2 x 4 Chunky Farmhouse Table-23 copy

I was also impressed with how quickly the paint went on and how little paint I actually had to use. I applied two coats to the top of the table but used only one coat on the rest and was really impressed with the coverage. I only used about 1/4 of the can to paint this table. The paint also dried fairly quickly.

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When the paint was dried, I used my sander and gave the table a quick once over. This took away any brush marks that had been made. I also scuffed it up a bit and weathered it a bit to look more “farmhouse-ish.”

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After I had the desired look I wanted, I used the same brush to brush on the clear wax. I was a bit worried about the wax but it went on nice and smooth and didn’t take to long either.

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I simply dipped my brush into the wax and brushed it on. I applied two coats to the top of the table for extra protection.

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Using cheesecloth I buffed the wax for a satin shine on the entire table. This was probably the most time consuming part of the painting/finishing part of the project but was still not to bad.

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I have never used wax before so I let is dry for a couple days before using it or decorating it and then it was ready.

2 x 4 Chunky Farmhouse Table-84 copy

2 x 4 Chunky Farmhouse Table-92 copy

2 x 4 Chunky Farmhouse Table-86 copy

I love the way this table turned out and am totally sold on Chalk Paint®! It is so fun looking at the coffee table knowing that Spencer and I built and finished this together!

There is nothing like a handmade home!

Have a great Monday and if you see if you see Chalk Paint® anywhere I highly recommend picking some up! I cannot wait to try out some other colors.

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Chalk Paint® decorative paint by Annie Sloan
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Tips for Painting a Checkerboard Pattern Wall

Hip! Hip! Hooray!! We are finally back to blogging and I can share my checkerboard patterned wall with you. If you follow me on Instagram then you know a little over a week ago my computer gave us the blue screen of death. Luckily, our awesome neighbor is a total computer geek (Hi Neil!) and totally saved our butts the day! My computer had been acting a bit funny so I went through and backed everything up – you know…. just in case… and I am so glad I did, even if we didn’t need it. Doesn’t that seem to be how it always goes? You back it up and you don’t lose a thing… no back up and the whole thing shuts down and is lost forever. sigh.


I am super excited to share this fun little project with you guys today! As you know, I have been working on turning our unused coat closet into a storage closet. This closet is going to be a work horse, but that doesn’t mean it can’t be pretty!

Tips for painting a checkered wall

I knew I wanted to do a stencil of some sort on the blank wall but I was unsure of what I wanted and it kept holding me back from finishing the project. I was laying on the floor in our front room staring at that blank wall when the thought came to me to checker it… and I loved that idea!

checkered Closet (81) copy

By the way… do you know how hard it is to get a nice picture inside a dark closet? You try it… it is hard!

I loved how these wall turned out and think those fun little checks were the perfect solution to a boring {work horse} storage closet.

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Do you want to paint a checkered wall too? Here are some tips on how to do it.

Decide on what size squares you want. I measured my wall and it was 15” so I made my squares 5”x5.”

Measure your squares out both horizontal and vertical. I took my tape measure and made a mark every 5 inches, starting at the ceiling all the way to the floor. I also did it from wall to wall.

Use a level and draw your straight lines for your squares.

Mark an “X” in each square you need to paint. This keeps you from getting confused. (maybe that is just me though!)

In this picture you can see my faint, straight and level lines and my x’s.

checkered Closet (61) copy

Tape off your wall. When taping, make sure you tape off the outside of the boxes you will be painting. You want to tape around the boxes with the x’s. I started at the top and taped all they way down, then went across. I will have to tape off twice but this is much easier than taping around each box.

In the corner you will see that it seems to be off. This is a good sign! You need to be off and it should be switched to keep the pattern going.

checkered Closet (67) copy

Paint your boxes. You can see that I also painted every other shelf gray.

checkered Closet (68) copy

Wait for the paint to dry and peel off the tape. Now tape in the opposite direction. You will find that you don’t need quite so much tape this time around.

checkered Closet (50) copy

When the paint is dry once again… peel off the tape and TA DA!!!

checkered Closet (52) copy

Put your shelving back in and you are done!

checkered Closet (56) copy

So much better than the before right!?

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checkered Closet (75) copy

checkered Closet (76) copy

I did this as an accent wall in a storage closet… but I think it would be so fun to do as an accent wall in a playroom or kid’s bedroom… maybe the guestroom? Anywhere really!!

Tomorrow is the big day! I will give you the full reveal! Stay tuned….

{Linked to Link Party Palooza and Remodelaholic}

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