Easy One Hour 1×6 Floating Shelf

A little bit ago, I was over at the 733 Blog sharing a recent project I had completed for my boys room!  As you guys know, I have slowly been finishing up and decorating their room and I wanted to add a shelf to their wall so I built an easy one hour 1×6 floating Shelf.

The best part of building things yourself is that you can make them the size, shape or length you want. This shelf is 5 feet long, but if you need/want one longer you can follow the same steps, just adjust the lengths to your measurement. This shelf is a really easy build and you can be waiting on stain to dry in just an hour!

YOU WILL NEED:

(3) 1” x 6” x 6” pine boards
Wood Glue
(1) 2×4
Pin nailer/nails
Wood Filler
Screws
1 x 1 1/2” bolts (optional)
Sandpaper
Stain of your choice.

CUT LIST:

(3) 1” x 6” x 6” at 5 feet. (top, bottom and front/face)
(2) 1” x 6” x 6” at 4 inches (sides)

If you don’t have a miter box, Home Depot will cut the wood for you.

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Pick the piece you want as your face piece. I wanted mine to be knotty and look rustic and old so I picked the one with the most “character.” It even had a little crack in the face.

Glue the entire edge of top piece.

Then using your pin nailer or nails and hammer, nail the face piece to the top piece.

Then glue and nail your face piece to the bottom piece.

You should have a box…. missing the bottom. It should look like this. The face piece for your shelf is the piece on the top in this picture. The shelf face will have nail holes.

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Glue both sides of the side pieces, insert them into the end and nail in place.

Now the shelf is built!! Give it a quick sand to smooth it out a bit.

Fill the little holes with wood filler or if you have a matching putty, just wait and putty when you are done staining.
All the wood in my boy’s room is stained Classic Gray by Minwax so that was my stain of choice.

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After your stain is dry, sand your shelf down again to give it a weathered look – then give it a once-over with Rustoleum Matte Clear Finish Spray.

It has been about an hour and you are done building and just waiting for everything to dry and cure. I waited over night and was ready to hang the shelf up – but first I wanted to add a little bit of character to the shelf. Using the same bolts I used to hang up their planked truck art and to attach their bed rails – I screwed them into the wood.

These are purely for decoration! But if you want some too… measure in 1 1/4” from each side and mark it.

Use a 9/64 drill bit and pilot drill a hole.

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After you pilot drill use your bolt and 7/16 socket bit and drill them in.

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HOW TO HANG A FLOATING SHELF

Now your shelf is built, dry and ready to hang.

Measure the inside of your shelf – Mine is 58 1/2” and then cut your 2×4 to be 1/2 an inch smaller – so I cut mine at 58”.

Find the center of where you want to hang your shelf, use your level to make sure it is straight and screw your 2×4 in the wall at the studs. If you don’t have studs – use drywall anchors – but make sure your 2×4 is nice and secure and level!

Now you screw your shelf into the 2×4 and you are set. To make this part easier, measure in 3/4” to make sure you hit the middle of the 2×4 and pre-drill your screws.

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Before you drill, if you need to, make sure you measure both sides of the wall to make sure your shelf is right in the middle. Since your 2×4 is only 1/2” smaller than your shelf you wont have to wiggle it too much. Then finish drilling your screws into the 2×4.

And now you are done! It seems like there are a lot of steps, but trust me – this is an easy to build shelf and hanging it is a breeze!!

I love how fun and rustic it is and I love the screw accents! I matches their beds and their planked truck art perfectly! Now to decorate the floating shelf! I need some fun frames and cute printable and… trucks!

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2 x 4 Chunky Farmhouse Coffee Table

A few days after Christmas, I got the idea in my head that I wanted Spencer to build me a coffee table. I wanted it to be big and chunky and have farmhouse appeal. I searched the web and found some great plans for almost exactly what I wanted and decided to go with the plans from More Like Home. Spencer and I loaded up the kids, headed out to Home Depot to grab our 2×4’s and came home to build it.

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Spencer cut everything in the garage and then we assembled it in the family room while we watched a movie. It is a pretty simple build and we followed the plans – except we don’t have a Kreg Jig and so we used our speedbor method to countersink the screws – and it worked perfect! I’m not going to reinvent the wheel so if you would like to build this table, head over More Like Home and follow her plans!

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I puttied the screw holes and used my quarter sheet sander to sand it down a bit. I also stained the edges of the coffee table with Minwax Cherry Stain so when I sanded for my farmhouse look I would have a cherry color show through and match the wood in our home.

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And then she sat in the garage for a few weeks. It was too cold to spray paint. I didn’t want brush marks from regular paint. I didn’t want to stain… so I was a little bit stuck.

In the meantime, Annie Sloan Unfolded contacted me and asked if  I would be willing to review a few of their products – when they arrived, I knew it would be the perfect paint for my coffee table.

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I have heard and seen a lot of great reviews for Chalk Paint® decorative paint by Annie Sloan so I was excited to try it out – especially on something that Spencer and I had worked on together. I picked Old White for an antique look.

2 x 4 Chunky Farmhouse Table-21 copy

Using the brush, I was provided, I brushed the paint onto the coffee table. I was impressed with how smoothly it went on and how very little brush marks were made. I love how big this brush is and it paints like a dream. My only complaint about the brush is I did have to pick out a few bristles – which can be annoying but with how smooth the rest of the work went, a couple bristles was worth it for me.

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I was also impressed with how quickly the paint went on and how little paint I actually had to use. I applied two coats to the top of the table but used only one coat on the rest and was really impressed with the coverage. I only used about 1/4 of the can to paint this table. The paint also dried fairly quickly.

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When the paint was dried, I used my sander and gave the table a quick once over. This took away any brush marks that had been made. I also scuffed it up a bit and weathered it a bit to look more “farmhouse-ish.”

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After I had the desired look I wanted, I used the same brush to brush on the clear wax. I was a bit worried about the wax but it went on nice and smooth and didn’t take to long either.

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I simply dipped my brush into the wax and brushed it on. I applied two coats to the top of the table for extra protection.

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Using cheesecloth I buffed the wax for a satin shine on the entire table. This was probably the most time consuming part of the painting/finishing part of the project but was still not to bad.

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I have never used wax before so I let is dry for a couple days before using it or decorating it and then it was ready.

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I love the way this table turned out and am totally sold on Chalk Paint®! It is so fun looking at the coffee table knowing that Spencer and I built and finished this together!

There is nothing like a handmade home!

Have a great Monday and if you see if you see Chalk Paint® anywhere I highly recommend picking some up! I cannot wait to try out some other colors.

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Sandpaper: Picking the Right Grit

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Let’s Say you just finished building a really great project and are ready to sand it down… Or maybe you came across an amazing dresser but it was painted the color of your 3-year olds vomit from last winter and you need to sand off all that nasty paint but have no idea where to start… or maybe you just painted a hutch you poured your heart and soul into and now it feels bumpy instead of having a smooth finish. So you jump in your car and head to Home Depot only to discover a large aisle with lots of different kinds of sandpaper…. Now what do you do?

No worries! Today we are going to teach you all we know about the different grits of sandpaper and what each one should be used for!

SANDPAPER

The Most Important Thing To Remember About Sandpaper is:
The Lower The Grit Number The More Coarse the Paper Is!
Likewise:
The Higher The Grit Number The More Fine the Paper Is!

  • 30 Grit Sandpaper: This is the lowest grit and there is a very slim chance you would ever use this on a project as it is hard to find and made for metal – think stripping paint off a car or sanding down Bondo.
  • 60 Grit Sandpaper: This grit is used for rough material removal and paint removal. Examples would be taking paint off an old dresser or sanding down two uneven pieces of planking to be even and smooth.
  • 80-100 Grit: 100 grit is most common and used for light material removal and shaping. Examples would be sanding seams, sanding out light paint flecks or removing sanding marks from using the 60 grit. 80-100 grit is also used for rounding corners or taking edges off of something, such as a table or bookshelves.
  • 120-150 Grit: This grit is a finish sand before painting. This grit allows the paint to bite into the wood, and gets rid of the really coarse scratches from the previous sandpaper used.
  • 180 Grit: This grit is a finish sand before staining/finishing wood. This grit will smooth it up across the surface so you don’t have marks from the 100-120 grit. It provides for a much smoother finish.
  • 220: Sand finish between coats of paint/lacquer (or polyurethane).
  • 320: Sand finish between coats of paint/lacquer (or polyurethane).
  • 400: Sand finish between coats of paint/lacquer (or polyurethane).
  • 600-2000:  These grits are rarely used in DIY. These grits are used to take off a light coat or to put tiny scratches in your paint/clear coat so a new layer of finish can be applied (You can also use Mineral Spirits or Paint Thinner for this).
    This grit is also used to wet sand/buff scratches on your car.

SANDING SPONGES

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Sanding sponges are just like sandpaper… in sponge form! Which means you can use them with water for a “wet sand”, and they don’t fall apart! I actually prefer to use the sponge over paper if I am sanding by hand. I just feel like I have a better grasp on the sponge and it doesn’t tear up as easily as the paper. In between coats of paint or right before my final topcoat – I always sand with a high grit sponge! These are available at your local hardware store in Medium (about 180 grit); and Fine (about 320-400 grit). NOTE: The longer these sponges are used, the finer the “grit” becomes on them, so if you have a delicate project, wash out an old sponge and use that sponge for your project!

Now you can pick the right sandpaper grit with confidence! Let us know if you have any other “gritty” questions!

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