What To Do If Your Paint Runs

Hey guys!!

Did you guys see the cherry and white farmhouse kitchen table revamp I posted about on Tuesday? I am so in love with it and I enjoy the warmth it brings into our kitchen!

Cherry and white farmhouse kitchen table

In that post I showed you that I used my finish max to spray the whole thing so today I wanted to talk about something that probably happens to everyone! You get a little trigger happy on the paint sprayer or on the spray paint can or you get a little antsy and spray on a layer to heavy and of course… the paint runs! ahhhhh!!

No worries! I am here today to help you through it! You see, when I was sponge sanding my chairs down for final coat and getting rid of all the grit I found a run… dang it!

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Good thing I know how to fix it and in just a couple minutes you will too! Now even if you were painting and found a run in the wet paint, you would take the same steps – only wait for the run to dry.

You need the paint to be completely dry.

And you need a really sharp razor blade!

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Take your razor blade and simply slice off the run. The paint in the “run” part will be thick and will slice away really nicely.

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Here you can see where I sliced off the run.

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Take a sponge sander and lightly sand the area where the run was and the surrounding area.

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and then you are ready to paint once again! You will need to add a few extra coats to the area to cover the place you sliced off – but you will be run free and happy!!

Have a great day – and be patient as you spray!

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How to Quickly Clean Your Grout

Sometimes on the weekends I do really cool awesome things…. and sometimes I do really boring “have to” things – like laundry and moping. Every week I mop our tile in our laundry room and every week it just gets dirtier and dirtier. For seven years our grout has been collecting dirt – to the point where I told Spencer we were ripping it all up because it was so gross. I had NO idea what to do about it and was frustrated that nothing I had tried really worked – and that we made a HUGE first mistake – we picked a really light grout. But then the Heavens opened and I stumbled upon a cure – Cue angles singing in the background – and today I am here to tell you I found out how to quickly clean your grout!!! {Hallelujah! Hallelujah!!}

How to Quickly Clean Your Grout

Supplies you Need:

White Vinegar
Water
Baking Soda
Dawn Dish Soap
Wash Rag
Old Toothbrush

Before you begin, mix Water and White Vinegar with a 1:4 ratio in a spray bottle. Mix in 2 tablespoons of Dawn.

I was almost hesitant to post this – because I am a tiny bit embarrassed by how nasty my grout was. This is one of those things that I look at and think “why didn’t I do this sooner!”

This area probably has the highest traffic in our house. There is a door to the garage, the basement and the laundry room + bathroom all in this area. So when the kids (and the husband) come in all muddy – this is where they go! So here are a couple before photos – keep in mind that the grout “should be” an off-whiteish color.

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Gross right?

Let’s clean it up – the easy way!

First, take your wet wash rag and wipe down the grout lines.

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Sprinkle/spread baking soda in your grout lines. I just got down and dirty and used my hands!

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Next, spray the baking soda with the water/vinegar/dawn mixture.

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The baking soda will fiz up. Let it sit for a few seconds – like maybe 20 seconds. I let it sit a few more seconds for the “dirtier” areas.

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Then simply scrub the dirt off with your old toothbrush! You don’t even need that much elbow grease – the baking soda and mixture do the trick!

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It seriously is so fast and so easy and leaves your grout looking awesome! Here you can see where I had already cleaned and where I needed to clean.

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Crazy right? and a little bit gross. I cleaned the bathroom, the laundry room and the entry way to the garage in about an hour and a half – and somewhere in there I fed my three little kids some mac n’ cheese! I’m tellin’ ya – it is really easy and seriously look at the difference:

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I had debated calling in a grout cleaning company but I am so happy I tired this first. My tile/grout looks brand new and now I don’t want new tile quite so badly – (it’s still on the to-do list – just further down the list now!)

If you haven’t cleaned your grout in a while – hurry up and buy some vinegar and baking soda! You will LOVE the results!

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Tips for Installing Drawer Hardware

Hello Friends! I hope you all had a wonderful 4th of July holiday! Spencer finally had some days off work so we were finally able to do some really fun things together as a family! We hit up the waterpark, went out for dinner, stopped by the snow cone shack, bought and lit off some amazing fireworks, made smore’s in our firepit and camped in the backyard. Yesterday we escaped the heat a little bit and headed up to the mountains for a tin foil dinner picnic! It is always nice to take a little vacation from the mundane every day things – like cleaning!

Today I wanted to share with you some quick tips for installing drawer hardware. If you are just learning to build – this can be a little tricky – making sure everything is straight and flat and looks good.

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To make things easier for us and because Spencer used to install cabinets for a living – he created this awesome little hardware template. The template has a few of the common drawer hardware sizes and then gives you the holes for certain measurements. You simply line it up with the center of your drawer front, decide where you want the hardware to go and using an ale, press in the holes.

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Here you can see that I have marked my hardware with an ale and made the holes for where my pull will go.

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Using a 3/16 drill bit, drill out the holes where your marks are. Make sure you drill straight up and down.

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When your holes are drilled, flip your board over and using a 3/8 speedbor – notch out the back of your hole. You only need to give your drill one good squeeze because you only want the hole as deep as the screw head. Here are some great tips for using a speedbor. 

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Attach your hardware. Here you can see that the screws lie flat and don’t poke out at all. Now when you attach your drawer fronts to your drawers, they will sit flat and you won’t have a gap between your drawer and your front from the screws.

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Use the same measurement for each drawer and repeat all the steps and your furniture piece will be awesome!

For other posts in this series you can check out these:

Rustic Rolling 6-Drawer Dresser
Tips for Installing Drawer Fronts

Have a great Monday!

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How to Cut a Wide Board with a Miter Box

Sometimes you have the right tools and sometimes you don’t. Spencer and I have quite the collection of tools – but we still have a wish list… and one of those wish list tools is a sliding miter box. I would love to have a really nice miter box with a huge blade on a slide so I would be able to cut though wide boards – but we don’t so we have little tricks to help us! Today I want to show you a little trick to teach you how to cut a wide board with a miter box.

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This board is a 1×10 – which is really 3/4 x 9 1/2 – and as you can see, it is too wide for my miter box.

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I don’t want the edge to be choppy like the one below and would like a nice straight line – but don’t want to go through a lot of trouble to get it.

The first step is to measure your board and cut it clean through.

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The front edge will still be uncut –

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Flip the board over and withOUT starting the blade, put the blade in the cut to make sure the blade and the cut line up perfectly.

Hold the board perfectly still and tight and lift up the blade. Start the blade and finish cutting the wood! You will have a nice clean line and your wood will be cut all the way through!

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Nice right!? So if you have a miter box with a blade not quite big enough – flip the wood and get started on your projects!

If you liked this post, you may also like:
How To Use A Miter Box
How to Use A Tile Saw
How to Use a Table Saw
How to Use a Skil Saw

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Getting Your Laundry Under Control!

Laundry… just the word gives you the hebbie-Jebbies… right? Today I am offering some advice on how my laundry process works so we can working on getting your laundry under control!


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In my laundry room I have two laundry hampers. One is for darks and colors and the other is for lights and whites. All of the clothes that come into the laundry room go into one of these two baskets. This helps keep everything off the laundry room floor.

Besides the laundry baskets in the laundry room we only have one other laundry basket and it is in my bedroom closet. When my children change for the day or for the night and have clothing that needs to be washed they will either put it in the laundry basket in my closet or make a pile in the hallway. If they make a pile in the hallway I will simply gather it up and put it in the corresponding baskets in the laundry room. Sometimes if they are really on top of it they will put it in the baskets in the laundry room but my children are little so those days are few and far between.

I fold laundry almost every day.

I fold all of my laundry at night.

Throughout the day I will throw a load into the washing machine and send it through the dryer and then I’ll either leave it in the laundry basket or dump it on my bed. I usually dump it on my bed because then I can’t get out of folding it.

Depending on how frustrating the day is depends on how many loads of laundry goes into the washing machine. Sometimes I have one load to fold and sometimes I have seven loads to fold (just kidding… Sort of).

After all of my kids are tucked into bed, I’ll go into my room and fold all the laundry. While I fold the laundry I listen to my scriptures on audio. The more frustrating my day is the more I feel like I need the Scriptures. Sometimes I listen to one chapter while other times I’ll get in three or four. I like to listen to my scriptures rather then watch TV because I feel like it stimulates my brain and I can kill two birds with one stone since I try and read my scriptures regularly.  If you don’t like listening to Scriptures choose a book on tape or a relaxing station on Pandora.

After I get all of the clothes folded, I will put away everything but my children’s clothes. I take my children’s clothes to their rooms and set them on their dressers and in the morning when we wake up and make their beds we will also put away their clothes. I make them help!

When folding I don’t doddle I simply stand there and fold. I also never sit. I’m usually done with folding and putting away and under 20 minutes! Then I can move on with the rest of my night (Parenthood or Revolution anyone??)

This keeps me up-to-date on laundry and I never have a monster pile to wash and put away… unless of course we have a sickie in the house!

My oldest child is 4. I am sure as time goes on, we will invest in another laundry basket/hamper and they will have to wash and fold as well – but this system works and if I teach them now to put their clothes in the laundry room then they will hopefully (fingers crossed) continue to do as they grow.

Hopefully I have given you one or two ideas to help your laundry flow a little easier!

Linked to the Link Party Palooza

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Favorite Wood Fillers

Spencer and I build a lot so naturally we have products and colors that we totally love and use all the time. Today we are talking about our favorite wood fillers. If you are just learning to build or learning to stain you will love this post because we will tell you what we love and why. If you are already a pro – chirp in and let us know what products you love too!

Our favorite wood filler brand is Famowood. Growing up, Spencer used it in his dad’s cabinet shop and now we use it in our garage. It is made of wood – and is awesome at filling holes. Rarely do I ever have to go back and re-putty and if I do it’s because the hole was huge!

When you fill, you normally want to fill the holes the color you are planning on staining or the color of the wood if you are clear coating. Famowood has wood filler in all these colors.

They have a few different sizes and are reasonably priced so you could buy a few different colors without breaking the bank. I have bought mine off of Amazon or Woodcraft.

Famowood also makes a water-based filler that is ready to sand and stain with water based stains in 15 minutes!

Our second favorite wood filler – and the best one to purchase at Home Depot in a pinch is Minwax Wood Filler.

Minwax is awesome because they work together as a company to make sure that their fillers, putties and stains all match in color and work together. You can fill, stain and touch up with the exact same color and we love that! (of course!)

When choosing a wood filler – make sure that it is stainable. The last thing you want to do is finish a piece only to learn you cannot stain it. (unless of course the plan was to paint the piece.)

When filling, make sure you over fill a little bit so you can sand it smooth. Use a putty knife so you avoid small pot holes from your fingers.

You only want to use wood filler on large holes from screws and such. For tiny pin holes, stain your project and use a putty.

Happy Building!

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Tips for Storing Craft Vinyl

I love vinyl – all kinds of vinyl… iron-on, indoor, outdoor, glow in the dark, chalkboard…. you name it, I probably have it. It is so easy to use and with my Silhouette Cameo and Cricut Mini I can create almost anything I want with vinyl so I have quite the collection.

The problem I kept running into though was how to store it all. #firstworldproblems

I laid it all flat and tried to color coordinate it and keep it stored that way, but if I needed a color in the middle of the stack, it was a nightmare trying to pull it out, I was never sure what colors I did have or how many of a color I had – so that idea didn’t work.

Next, I tried to put all the colors into file folders – but that plan failed because I don’t have file drawers large enough for 12×24 pieces of vinyl… and I didn’t want to make something large to take up space for it.

Next I just threw it all in a bin and said "who cares" but when it was all jumbled up I realized that I do…I care!

So I thought about it and every time I order vinyl it comes rolled up. You buy it at Hobby Lobby rolled up. So I thought that I would do just that and roll it up… but I didn’t realize how brilliant this idea was until I actually started doing it.

First I went though each color and put all the matching ones together.

If I had some that were cut but still long enough to roll up, I added those in as well.

I flipped all the pieces over and put the pieces that had been cut on top of the upside down pile.

I got my piece of masking tape ready…

And then I started to roll the vinyl up.

As I rolled the vinyl started to separate itself at the top so when I was done rolling I was able to see each color and how pieces I had of each color.

I wrapped my tape around the roll and was done!

I love being able to see all the colors without having to flip through a bunch of sheets and I love knowing that I have three bright blues!

I did this with each color and also my specialties as well – like chalkboard or polka dot.



The best part is that they don’t take up a lot of space but are still really convenient. I put all my rolls into a storage bin and have them in my
storage closet.

I love seeing all the vinyl rolled laid out so I can see what I have and what I want to order! Just remember that when you are rolling not to bend/crease the ends and don’t roll them too tightly – you want to be able to use them without them rolling up on you from being too tight!

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Homemade Laundry Detergent

When it comes to easy ways to save a buck – if it’s a great idea – I am all about it! But when I heard about making your own laundry detergent I was honestly a little bit hesitant.

Could throwing a bunch of soap items from the laundry aisle really get my clothes clean and make them smell good in the process?

Plus…. there are a million and one recipes for Homemade Laundry Detergent so how was I to know which one to use?

I sort of dug my heels in until I had to buy borax for a preschool science project and found out how cheap it was and how little I was supposed to use to “boost” my laundry soap.

I goggle and read and goggled and read some more and seemed evident to me that as long as you had a couple basic ingredients — you were good to go.

Homemade Laundry Detergent

Homemade Laundry Detergent Recipe

1 box Borax
1 box Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soap
1 large box Arm & Hammer Baking Soda
1 box Oxi Clean
1 bar Ivory Soap

Note: Put the Ivory soap bar in a microwave safe bowl, put in microwave for one minute. The soap will start to grow. When cooled off you can crumble it into small pieces. It is so much better than trying to grate the whole bar.

I bought a large glass jar in the kitchen section of walmart and poured in all my ingredients. Then I mixed it all up really good and it was ready for the laundry.

Here is a little movie I posted on Instagram about it:

I have been using it for a few weeks now and I love it! I have three small kids so stains are no mystery to me. I am a stain fighting mama and this soap has taken out all the stains perfectly (or at least how I would expect them to come out.) No more buying expensive store soap for me!

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Remove Your Base and Casing Nicely

There are so many tutorials floating around the internet about how to install wainscoting, board and batten, wall paneling, bead board and more. I am sure you have seen one or two or two hundred of them. I love each style for different reasons, but each one comes with it own different style.

When putting a home together I feel there are some things that need to flow and match and have a certain style and your base and casing and how it ties into your wall treatments is a HUGE one for me.

In our home we are installing board and batten and going with a craftsman/farmhouse style, but our base and casing won’t match the new style… so I get the tedious task of taking them all off… in our entire house… ENTIRE HOUSE! When I finish, we may have to have a little website party to celebrate, but that is a long time coming…

In the meantime, I wanted to share how to remove baseboard and casing without damaging your wall.

You will need a razor knife, a small crowbar, a large crow bar, a hammer and a large pair of pliers (not pictured). 
  

The first and most important part of removing base and casing is to use your razor blade and slice the caulking between the wall and the baseboard. Cutting the caulking allows the boards to pull off much easier and significantly reduces the chance of peeling off the paint. There will be less touch up this way.

 

Use the corner of your small crowbar and insert it into the cut caulk and use your hammer to lightly pound it in-between the wall and board. A slit will open and you can then lightly pound the small crowbar in all the way.

 

Continue using the crowbar to pry the board away from the wall.

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When the board is loose, you can wiggle it off the wall. Sometimes it may get stuck so use your larger crowbar and prey it off.

 

And because nothing is ever simple… or maybe that is just us! haha! When you pull the board off the wall you will still have little pin nails in your wall. Some may be in your board so be careful but some will remain in the wall. Do not hammer them in! Get out your pliers and pull them all out. If you hammer them in, when you put up your new baseboards, your new nails could strike the old nails and reek havoc all over your brand new baseboards.

 

I like to use a razor and scrap off any extra caulking that may be on the wall – but for the most part you should have a nice clean area, ready for new baseboard!

 

And now you’re ready for your new base and casing! but that is another post for another day!

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